Picking your ISP and Wifi

Picking your ISP and Wifi

Residential Internet

Picking internet, fiber is better. If no Google available AT&T Gigapower is 1Gbit same as google. Expecting more than 100-200Mbps of internet speed (Packets north of SC or into Florida or TN for example) from AT&T is about as good as you'll get because of the AT&T/Comcast/Internet backbone providers interconnects usually max out. Haven't tested/heard about Google fiber's long haul speeds.

If that's not available, Comcast will be the next recommendation.

If not that, the AT&T Uverse/DSL will be next though AT&T is basically rebuilding/upgrading their network so locality and what technology is available may soon change this recommendation.



Internet Speeds:
Internet speeds have a download component and an upload component. The numbers you gave me are the download speed they "guarantee" for download. Comcast will usually provision that number +5-10%.
Upload speed (uploading picture to the internet, sending your video signal to the person you're talking with) is usually a lot lower. Like the Comcast 25Mbps down is probably a 5Mbps up bandwidth. Upload probably goes up by 5Mbps for each plan you quoted, but you'd want to confirm.

Wifi:
Wifi works in two spectrums or frequencies 2.4GHz (802.11 B/G/N) and 5GHz (802.11 A/N/AC)
2.4GHz: Older, more people use it, in appts or lots of people close to you there's going to be lots of interference, travels farther thru matter (walls), slower
5GHz: Newer, less people use it, more frequencies for people to use so less overlap/interference, doesn't go as far thru matter, faster

I always recommend avoiding wireless whenever possible, so if you have a regular computer work area install the internet connection there and hard wire (ethernet) your main PC/printer etc.

From there when you have to have to go wireless it's always "best effort" internet. Many things make "noise" (cheap poorly shielded Microwaves, big motors etc) and interfere with 2.4GHz. 

The letters above stand for released versions. Left=olders=slower, to the right=newer=faster. B oldest, G next newer/faster, A next newer/faster, N next newer/faster, AC newest/fastest. To get the faster, both ends (router/AP=Access Point/thing sending out wireless and devices connecting to the wireless) have to be the same version. If there's conflict, it works at the slowest devices speed.

Joining 1 B to an N, depending on router/AP smarts can make all devices connected run at B speeds. Better/newer equipment can use tricks to minimize that effect.

Simple Tests:
Where you are going, open phone wifi and count the number of networks you see. More than 5, and there's a high probability of frequency channel overlap so the more you go with 5GHz wifi the better. But understanding above, that will require you to install more AP's to cover the same area (if you're marginal coverage at the edges with 2.4GHz considering above).

Don't use repeaters/extenders. They instantly take theoretical max speed and half it for each repeater you put in (excluding a single newest version of mesh class devices which uses more frequency so will only be effective in non-congested areas).

If you need more than 1 AP, ethernet connect the AP's together, and put in some Unifi AP's for the speed you want (2x2 Lite $80-90 ea or 3x3 Pro $130-140 ea AC) are the only things I install nowadays. For the price they're worth it, you have to have a controller though...if I'm helping I have one you can use ($70-80 extra part).

Theoretical Max Speed for a single device talking one way (actual speeds are WAY slower)
B=11Mbps
G=54Mbps
N=600MBps

A=54Mbps
N=600MBps
AC=1300Mbps

Wireless is complicated, and gets more so fast.
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